Your first hanfu should make the category easier, not more confusing. Before comparing colors or embroidery, decide where you want to wear it. A festival outfit, a photo-session look, a wedding guest set, and a daily wardrobe piece all ask for different fabric weight, sleeve length, and styling commitment.
Begin with the silhouette
If you want a versatile first piece, consider a mamian skirt or a clean Song-inspired outer layer. Both can be styled with modern basics and do not require a full historical set to feel intentional.
Fit matters more than height alone
Measure bust, waist, shoulder width when relevant, and the finished length you prefer. Compare these numbers with the garment chart, not only with a generic size label.